Last May 7 was a pleasant Friday evening in Portland. I was on my way to the stately University Club downtown to take part in a panel discussion and mult-course dinner celebrating Portland's favorite son and chef, the late James Beard. Entering the century-old structure feels like orientation day at Hogwarts: High, vaulted cielings with gilded trim everywhere, and 20-foot windows with forest-green velvet drapery. The tables were long and only two in number, with 40 covers each. A wine glass for every course, plus myriad tableware to match. The University Club is a private enclave in the heart of Portland's skyscraper district. Its unique history and classic decor lend itself well to the celebration of a local legend.