As cooks and chefs sometimes we need a day off. I am lucky enough to have one of those rare jobs that allows me time off during some of the traditionally busy winter holidays. That wasn't the case during my days as a caterer. The month of December had us driving to the most places in the worst possible weather, and unlike the summer months with high-revenue weddings, December parties were smaller and took place later in the day. Bottom line: More work for less money. The light at the end of the tunnel was of course the family time, gifts and great food. My wife and her family are great cooks, so during those busy Decembers, after the catering was done, I was only asked to handle the protein. No problem.

My inclinations were to go with tradition, though I'm not sure I'll ever attempt a goose again. What has worked really well? Veal or pork crown roasts to be sure, as well as duck confit, beef bresaeola and stuffed pork roast. All pair well with the favorite family sides of sweet potatoes, "company" peas, and of course taboulleh.

The beef bresaeola has those lingering spices, and we serve it with fresh baked rolls and a horseradish cream sauce. In its summer incarnations it also gets fresh tomato slices. here's how we make it:

Seared beef bresaeola                               serves 12-14

1 each 4-5 pound beef tenderloin, completely peeled and trimmed. (You can ask for it this way from your butcher, but you can save money by peeling and trimming it yourself. Most of the trim can be used for stir fry or for making beef broth.)

1 tbl kosher salt                                                                                                                                                               1 tbl brown sugar                                                                                                                                                            1 tsp ground ginger                                                                                                                                                     1/2 tsp ground coriander                                                                                                                                               1 tsp ground black pepper                                                                                                                                          1/4 tsp cinnamon

Blend the spices together and rub them into the tenderloin. Allow the meat to rest in a non-reactive pan in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours. Heat your grill, griddle or large roasting pan or cast iron pan to med-high heat and sear the tenderloin on all sides. Be sure not to burn the sugars too much. If you don't like it rare, you can finish it in a 350 degree oven for 5-10 minutes. Allow the tenderloin to rest briefly after cooking, then slice it thin and serve it with the rolls, sauce and all your favorite sides!

This dish is based on an age-old technique for air-dried beef salami. The main difference here is that you are cooking the meat rare instead of air-drying and curing.