Last May 7 was a pleasant Friday evening in Portland. I was on my way to the stately University Club downtown to take part in a panel discussion and mult-course dinner celebrating Portland's favorite son and chef, the late James Beard. Entering the century-old structure feels like orientation day at Hogwarts: High, vaulted cielings with gilded trim everywhere, and 20-foot windows with forest-green velvet drapery. The tables were long and only two in number, with 40 covers each. A wine glass for every course, plus myriad tableware to match. The University Club is a private enclave in the heart of Portland's skyscraper district. Its unique history and classic decor lend itself well to the celebration of a local legend.
The panel consisted of Portland restauranteur Bruce Carey, media entrepreneur and writer Martha Holmberg, Winemaker Howard Mozeico, and yours truly providing perspective from a culinary college. A handpicked group of members tossed both hard-and-softball questions to us that raised everyone's interest and created lively discussions. Portland may finally have arrived to a point where it is now worthy of Mr. Beard.
The evening's eight courses were all Beard recipes deftly excuted by club Chef Michael Barshis, Sous Chef Paul Dube and Pastry Chef Janet Gordon, with stealth service from Maitre D' George Seidner and his crisp staff. The wines, mostly Pinot Noirs, were courtesy of Mozieco's Et Fille winery, via Howard and daughter Jessica.
Here's the menu:
Anchoide on Baguette
Codfish cakes with watercress and tarragon aioli
Beef tartare with quail egg
Garlic soup
Chinook salmon with dill and cucumber onion salad
Braised Piedmontese short ribs with morels and baby potatoes
Baby greens with green goddess, brie and comte cheeses
Apple Charlotte with candied bacon and creme fraiche
It might not be the Beard House in New York, but this private club in Beard's hometown put on a show that really highlighted the artful simplicity of Beard's cookery: Not fussy, with clean and bold flavors, using local and seasonal ingredients. What a treat. I was truly honored to be invited, and the University Club of Portland will make this an annual Spring event to celebrate a hometown hero.
