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Not that long ago, Americans demanded Cherrystone clams, Maine lobster, and Blue Point oysters. Those in the know today have decided to go regional. Steamer clams, Japanese black tip crab, Yaquina Bay oysters, and Louisiana crawfish are only a few of the substitutes that have brought food critics to their knees, and have caused shellfish eaters to rethink their preferences.
Restaurant guests feel the same way about wine. No longer do they ask the sommelier for a Rhine Wine, Chablis or Burgundy. Today they request a specific grape variety, and possibly will even note a particular location where the wine was made. Which wine, then, might accompany that special shellfish dish on the menu?
 Let's start with crawfish. Boiled or steamed, in Bouillabase, gumbo or jambalaya, they're a succulent regional delicacy that shouldn't be missed. Gewurtztraminer could be the perfect wine that accentuates the spicy tones of these meals. Alsace, in France, is probably home to the best traminers in the world. These wines are full-bodied and aromatic and excellent with food. Germany and Oregon also make tasty Gewurtztraminers.
Often, we do well to serve a wine that was used in the preparation of a dish. Crayfish Bordelaise calls for Sauvignon Blanc, which is classically found in the Bordeaux district of Graves in France. Sauvignon Blanc from California or the Loire Valley might also be apropos. This grape, loosely translated as "savage white," makes a wine that's dry and herbaceous; just right for the elegant Bordelaise.
Do you know what Cary Grant ate with his champagne? That's right, oysters. Nothing's better with oysters than champagne or sparkling wine. The best buys in sparkling wine are Spanish sparklers done in the Methode Champenoise. Bubbly production in California and the Northwest is rapidly approaching the quality (and price) of the great French champagne. Sparkling wines are generally blended for finesse, elusively fruity, gentle and yet authoritative at the same time. The choice for oysters on the half shell, oysters Rockefeller, and baked oysters with lobster butter has to be sparkling wine.
For those of you who enjoy simpler pleasures; there's more. Chardonnay is yet another wine made for oysters. From the rich, buttery California styles to the more austere, flinty, dry wines of Chablis, you'll find a match made in heaven.
Lobster is perhaps the richest of the crustaceans and for those of you without cholesterol problems, the ultimate for a romantic dinner. Don't disappoint your paramour with a substandard wine. French champagne fits the bill in more than one way. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Muscadet might also be suggested. Pinot Gris is found in Alsace and is made in a full-bodied, floral style. Muscadet has somewhat of a bad name. People often think of it as sweet and poorly made. Not in the Loire Valley, where it is considered the perfect complement to shellfish. Its early ripening and low acidity make it ideal for instant drinking with these crustaceans.
Abalone Florentine flambé with Pernod is perfect with Sauvignon Blanc. Mussels and clams are perhaps both best enjoyed after steaming in a Wine Court Bouillon. Dry Rieslings from Alsace or the northwest have a fruity and floral nature that captures the essence of the broth. Other mollusks include scallops, which are usually accompanied by rich sauces. Full-bodied Chardonnays and Pinot Gris' are needed to stand up to these powerful presentations.
Chardonnays are best enjoyed with crab. Cold cracked crab is my favorite on a rainy evening at the coast. I prefer Burgundian Chardonnays, but am happy to settle for a California substitute. Another interesting combination is a mélange of seafood: crab, shrimp and lobster. Riesling from the Mosel or Rhiengau is proper here. A bit of sweetness is usually frowned upon with shellfish, but can occasionally add the right excitement to a given meal.
No article on shellfish would be complete without the mention of shrimp. From the lowly bay shrimp to the majestic scampi, the king crustacean can adapt to most any menu. Riesling often is the best choice, although most of the other heretofore mentioned wines might also be enjoyed.
Some of you might be thinking another piece praising the white wines of the world with seafood is commonplace. Well, the fact is, white wines generally best accompany these foodstuffs. However, I encourage the hospitality industry to challenge the boundaries of good taste. Red wines might be suggested for some shellfish entrees. Cajun prawns are tremendous with a spicy Syrah from the Rhone Valley in France. Mediterranean shrimp are perfect for the light Gamay that comes from Beaujolais. Rich and earthy Pinot Noirs from Oregon or Burgundy might compliment a Lobster Thermador or Coquilles St. Jacques without overpowering them. True, these ideas stretch our imaginations, but you'll have the opportunity to set new limits by taking a chance.
Shellfish have pleased humble coastal dwellers as well as posh Parisian restaurant patrons for centuries. The combinations of preparations are endless. The hospitality industry's task is now to improve the wine selections that accompany these dishes. As one French wine critic put it, "Your wine should cast its pale golden glow over the purple of lobsters and the pearl of oyster, the pink of shrimps and the red of mullet."
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